For his first collaborative project with Stone Island, Aitor Throup has created not only a special edition concept piece, but he has also generated a new generic approach to garment construction. Based on his own on-going questioning of conventional garment design and manufacture techniques, Throup has defined a construction process that defies conventional pattern making and sewing methods. Aitor Throup's conceptual functionalism offers an evolutionary interpretation of Stone Island's strong heritage of innovation.
Throup's personal Justified Design Philosophy generates a need for a reason, purpose or function behind all design features. His fascination lies more with the anatomy of the human body, than with fashion itself. Throup sees garment design as a way of clothing the complicated structure of the human body – an approach which instantly refuses to use existing garments as a point of reference. Instead, he creates his own patterns / blocks through processes based on the specific exploration of each project, using the human body as the starting point.
The Modular Anatomy concept redefines ergonomics by de-constructing traditional garment construction patterns. Rather than using standard sleeves, armholes and full body panels, this innovative method generates multiple individually shaped modules, reflecting the structural complexity of the body itself. Each modular segment is directly dependent on the structure of each surrounding segment. The Modular Anatomy process generates an extremely ergonomical product through a unique and innovative approach to garment construction.
The first Modular Anatomy project is an interpretation of the traditional down jacket. The generic stitch lines traditionally found in a down jacket are re-interpreted as actual structural seams, stitched using a unique edge-to-edge method which eliminates all excess stitching bulk. Each segment is an individually down-filled cushion. Only once all separate cushion segments are separately filled, finished, and numbered, is the jacket stitched together.