For Spring Summer 2012 Stone Island is drawing on broader visions and authoritative observers, placing a new interpretation on concepts and thoughts. 'New Brutalism', 'Tesseletion' and 'Aircraft Carriers' have been researched for the construction and engineering of the collection, extracting elements of architecture, geometry and functionality.
'New Brutalism' was an architectural trend of the Fifties inspired by Le Corbusier's 'Beton Brut'. Coarse concrete was used, bringing forms and materials together in the name of function. Intarsia, pockets, zips and construction details strongly underscore the force and construction of the garments.
'Tessellation' refers to mosaic or tiles, the creation of geometric designs that trace patterns on the surfaces. The graphic patterns become strategic and functional inserts that free up movement.
'Aircraft Carrier', research into the functionality of the garments and details of the uniforms used by military officers that work on board aircraft carriers.
These garments include inserts that ease movement, engineered hoods and ribbing that underscores the forms of the garments.
ELEMENTS AND TREATMENTS
Major research has been carried out into the engineering of the dyeing for shiny, metallic and dense.
Nylon: Ultra-light with a performance membrane, opaque with internal silver coating and metallic with an iridescent appearance.
Tough Japanese Cotton/ Nylon, which is dyed and then waxed on the finished garment. Resin treated linen nylon blend.
The calendared shiny micro rip-stop fabric, with internal windproof barrier in Tyvek® is double-layered and slightly padded.
The polyester nylon has a micro twill and the polyester meshes are double layered in lightweight nylon.
Natural fibres become performance fabrics with a garment dyed Gore Windstopper® membrane and Ghost Piece in Ventile®.
LIQUID REFLECTIVE_ This fabric/treatment is a symbol of STONE ISLAND research and experimentation.
Its coating of thousands of mini glass microspheres makes it highly reflective. It is inspired by the language of high visibility for safety in the workplace. The jacket reacts strongly to light when it comes into contact with even the weakest light sources. The Liquid treatment is applied by means of hand spraying colour onto each individual finished garment. This generates an uneven liquid effect, which is fixed by baking dry, using a similar technology to the one used for car bodywork.
MUSSOLA PRISMATICA_ An exclusive fabric. For jackets in lightweight cotton muslin laminated to a fine-grained transparent polyurethane fi lm, which makes the surface shiny. Special double dyeing recipes to be used on the finished garment bestow each one with deep intense colours.
LAMY_ For the parka in Lamy, lightweight nylon canvas has been laminated on the inside with a resin charged with a silver coloured paste. The expertise employed in the Stone Island garment dyeing process bestows the outer face of the garment with an incomparable colour and the silver colouring of the resin on the inside enhances the dyeing effect with a translucent and slightly metallic note.
TECHNO MESH_ Jacket in a special technical polyester mesh. By means of garment dyeing, a lightweight yet rich nylon canvas on the inside bestows the outer face of the garment with an iridescent appearance and the inside with a deep, vivid colour.
LEATHER_ Hand waxed with an industrial appearance reminiscent of graphite.
The colours are based on three ideas, which support the themes of the collection:
'Dark Summer', that moment in the evening when the colours of the sea and the sky splinter into thousands of rich and deep shades.
'New Brutalism', the concrete and plaster of the architectural movement inspired by Le Corbusier.
'Aircraft Carrier', the military shades and high visibility colours used by aircraft carrier operators