Stone Island House Check

In collaboration with Dormeuil, season 6515 sees the launch of the Stone Island House Check.

Since 1842 Dormeuil is one of the world’s finest manufactures of specialist fine worsted menswear suiting, jacketing and coating fabrics. Using the finest micro wools, 100% cashmere and wools blended with natural and noble fibres such as vicuna and silk. They have developed timeless and iconic fabrics that have cemented the company reputation across all five continents. All of Dormeuil fabrics are produced in Huddersfield, England. Huddersfield has been synonymous with its fine woollen and worsted cloth manufacturing since the early 19th century with its craftsman passing down their skills from one generation to the next.

DEVELOPMENT

The initial objective in the development of the Stone Island House Check was to integrate the compass within the horizontal and vertical lines of a plaid pattern. This meant creating an intricate structure for the weave. As a result we decided to weave the pattern through a rare antique Jacquard Dobbcross fly shuttle loom, this allowed the structure to be woven at a slower pace allowing the loom to work with a delicate touch to coupe with the complexity of the design.
The pattern was woven as a double cloth, this meant interlacing two fabrics and weaving them at the same time. The compass part of the design was done on the under layer of the cloth and then pulled through the face of the fabric.
The end result was unexpected; the looms interpretation of the design gave emphasis to the reverse of the fabric in which the compass was laid out in a grid format (without the plaid background). The looms interpretation gave clarity to our initial creative vision. This interpretation became the grounding for the check pattern. From this point forward we worked on fine tuning the design and cloth.
The Stone Island House Check was born.

THE LOOM

The Stone Island House Check was woven on a antique Jacquard Dobcross fly shuttle loom. The loom is one of a handful across the world that is still producing cloth. The production is at a slower rate compared to modern looms, as a result the fabric is woven with a delicate touch giving it a better volume and a authentic feel.

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Video courtesy of Dormeuil®.